Denim Glossary
FABRIC
FORM STRETCH:
NEUW's proprietary stretch denim construction. Blends cotton with a small percentage of elastane so the jean flexes with the body while retaining structure.
SELVEDGE (SELF-EDGE):
Denim woven on a narrow shuttle loom so the fabric edge finishes itself cleanly, leaving a distinctive coloured stripe visible when you cuff the jeans. Known for premium quality, durability, and beautiful ageing. At NEUW we've opted for a minimalist approach removing the coloured thread for a white only finish.
SELVEDGE vs SELVAGE:
Both are technically correct. Selvage is the original English spelling, a literal portmanteau of "self-edge." Selvedge is the modern industry standard, often preferred by premium denim brands to distinguish the craft of shuttle-loom weaving from standard textile finishing. At Neuw, we use "Selvedge"—a nod to the technical mastery over stuffy traditions.
RAW SELVEDGE:
Unwashed, untreated denim in its original flat-colour indigo state. Rigid at first, it gradually moulds to the wearer's body and fades uniquely over time.
BLACK SELVEDGE:
A selvedge-woven denim finished in black. Retains the premium self-edge construction but with a dark colourway.
RIGID DENIM:
100% cotton denim with no stretch. Mid-to-heavyweight fabric that holds its shape firmly. Requires a 'wear-in' period; may feel tight at first but softens and moulds to the body over time.
COMFORT STRETCH:
NEUW's entry-level stretch tier. Cotton blended with elastane for everyday comfort. Eases slightly with wear.
TWILL:
A woven fabric with a diagonal rib pattern. Shares structure with denim but has a smoother, often lighter face. Used in NEUW's Lou Slim Twill.
ELASTANE:
A synthetic stretch fibre (also known as spandex or Lycra) blended into denim in small percentages (e.g. 2%) to add flexibility and recovery.
WASH
OVERDYE:
A garment-dyeing process applied on top of an existing base fabric.
BLACK RINSE:
A dyed finish that gives denim a deep, dark black tone while retaining the slight texture of the weave beneath.
INDIGO:
The classic blue dye used in denim since its origins. NEUW uses it across raw, mid, and dark washes.
CRUDO:
An Italian/Spanish-derived term meaning 'raw' or 'unbleached'.
VINTAGE INDIGO:
A faded or slightly worn-looking black finish as opposed to a clean rinse black.
CHAMBRAY BLUE:
A lightweight, plain-weave fabric made from cotton, linen, or synthetic blends, featuring a blue colored warp and white weft yarn for a mottled, denim-like appearance. It is softer, finer, and much more breathable than denim.
MID INDIGO:
A medium-depth classic blue indigo wash — not overly dark or light, sitting in the centre of NEUW's blue spectrum.
HONEYCOMB:
The faded, crease-like patterns that develop on the back of the knees from regular wear. These lines form as the denim fabric bends and stretches, appearing over time on raw denim due to walking, sitting, and physical activity. They can also be artifically applied for a more expressive or vintage look.
WHISKERS
These are the thin, faded, horizontal or diagonal lines located around the crotch, hip, or thigh area, formed from wearing denim over a long time.They can also be artifically applied for a more expressive or vintage look.
CONSTRUCTION
5-POCKET CONSTRUCTION:
The standard jeans pocket layout: two front slash pockets, a small coin pocket within the right front pocket, and two back patch pockets originating from 1930s 5-pocket workwear.
BUTTON FLY:
A tradtional cluser system consisting of a row of buttons rather than a zip to close the fly.
ZIP FLY:
A front opening secured by a metal zipper, designed for faster, easier, and flatter fastening compared to traditional button flies.
LEATHER PATCH:
A small branded panel stitched to the back waistband, a hallmark of heritage denim construction.
REPAIR STITCH:
NEUW's signature stitching detail included on every pair, reflecting their commitment to longevity and repairability.
ROB RING:
A NEUW Denim signature. A small metal ring on the waistband — a heritage detail used to attach a pocket watch fob. A hommage to founder Pär Lundqvist's lost fob watch gifted by his grandfather.
TOPSTITCHING:
Visible stitching on the outside of the garment used for structural reinforcement and aesthetic detail. Topstitching can either blend with the denim or intentionally contrast as a design detail.
TRIMMINGS:
Hardware and finishing details such as rivets, buttons, and labels. NEUW coordinates trimmings with each colourway based on the desired look and feel of the overall product.
FIT
TOP BLOCK:
The fit through the seat and thigh — the upper portion of the jean from the waistband to the knee. A 'regular top block' means standard room in this area.
RISE:
The distance from the crotch seam to the waistband. We offer low, mid, and high rise options across their range.
IN-SEAM:
The measurement of the inner-leg seam from the crotch to the bottom of the leg opening. It defines the length of the pant leg
HEM:
The finished opening at the ankle, width is listed in centimetres to indicate how much leg opening the style has.
STACK:
When excess fabric at the hem bunches or 'stacks' on top of the shoe. A deliberate styling choice on relaxed and straight fits.
TAPERED LEG:
A leg that narrows gradually from the thigh down to a narrower ankle opening. Creates a slim silhouette while retaining room through the seat and thigh.
SLIM FIT:
A close-fitting cut from hip to ankle. This typically features a streamlined narrow cut for a sleek silhouette.
